Garden · Stormwater
Rain garden sizing calculator
A rain garden captures roof and driveway runoff in a shallow, planted depression instead of letting it sheet across the yard or straight into a storm drain. Size it too small and it overflows during a real storm instead of soaking in. Size it too large and you've dug more than you needed to. Most sizing calculators are only built for one state or region, this one covers all 50, so you get a starting square footage based on your actual roof and pavement area, your regional rainfall, and your general soil type.
Glacial till loam typical of the Upper Midwest. Wisconsin DNR and UW-Extension guidance, the same source this whole calculator's soil-and-depth method is built on, sizes to a 1-inch storm.
Only count lawn that visibly sheets water toward the garden site, not your whole yard.
A percolation test or your county's USDA Web Soil Survey beats this default every time. If you know your soil, switch off the default above and set it directly.
Suggested rain garden size
190 sq ft
- Any rain garden helps, even one smaller than this. This size targets capturing and infiltrating the full design storm without overflowing.
- Keep the garden at least 10 feet from your foundation so infiltrating water doesn't work its way back toward the house.
- The garden needs to drain within 24 to 48 hours after a storm. If a test hole still has standing water after two days, the soil or depth setting above needs adjusting before you dig.
What to actually buy
Amerimax Flex-A-Spout Downspout Extension
A rain garden works best set back at least 10 feet from your foundation, which usually means routing the downspout further than the gutter alone reaches. This flexible extension gets roof runoff from the downspout to the garden without a trench or new piping.
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How this is calculated
The core formula is drainage area times a runoff coefficient, scaled by your regional design storm, then multiplied by a soil-and-depth sizing factor: roof area × 0.95, plus pavement area × 0.90, plus lawn area × 0.20, gives the effective runoff-generating area. Roofs and driveways shed nearly all the rain that falls on them. Lawn sheds much less, because grass and topsoil soak up a lot of it first. Those coefficients are the same values reproduced in Rational Method runoff tables used across state and municipal stormwater manuals.
That effective area gets multiplied by your state's design storm depth (in inches, relative to a 1-inch baseline), then by a soil-and-depth sizing factor taken directly from the University of Wisconsin-Madison Arboretum's rain garden worksheet, itself built on Wisconsin DNR guidance. That factor already does the work of dividing by a soil's infiltration rate: sandy soil at 8 inches deep uses a factor of 0.08, clay at 3 to 5 inches deep uses 0.43. Slower-draining soil and a shallower garden both push that number up, which spreads the same runoff over more square footage.
The state dropdown sets two starting defaults: a design storm depth and a soil type. Neither one is a precise site-specific measurement, that would need your street address and a percolation test, not a state name. Where a state publishes its own sizing figure we used it directly (Wisconsin and Iowa both do). Everywhere else we used NOAA's published U.S. climate regions to set a reasonable regional rainfall intensity, and USDA NRCS soil region descriptions (Piedmont clay, Coastal Plain sand, glacial till loam, Blackland Prairie clay, and so on) to set a reasonable regional soil default. Every state entry in the calculator lists its specific basis. Switch off "use state defaults" any time you have a real percolation test or a county soil survey result, that beats any default on this page.
UConn CLEAR's Rain Garden App is a genuinely well-built tool with its own sizing calculator, a sizing map, and a soil drainage map, and it is worth using if you live in one of the 23 states it covers with a state-specific preset. This calculator exists for the other 27 states, including several of the largest gardening markets in the country, where that app falls back to a generic answer.
Sources
- UW-Madison Arboretum / Earth Partnership for Schools — Sizing a Rain Garden (soil-and-depth factor table, based on Rain Gardens: A How-To Manual for Homeowners, WI DNR Pub-WT-776)
- Iowa Rain Garden Design and Installation Manual (Iowa's 1.25-inch design storm)
- UConn CLEAR / CT NEMO Program — Siting and Sizing a Rain Garden
- NOAA National Centers for Environmental Information — U.S. Climate Regions
Frequently asked questions
How do I find my actual soil type instead of using the state default?
A simple percolation test is the most reliable free option: dig a hole about a foot deep, fill it with water, let it drain once, then time how long a second fill takes to drain. Water draining faster than an inch an hour points toward clay, faster drainage points toward sand or loam. The USDA's Web Soil Survey (websoilsurvey.nrcs.usda.gov) also gives a free, address-specific soil classification if you'd rather look it up than dig.
Where should a rain garden be placed relative to my house?
At least 10 feet from the foundation, further if your soil drains slowly, and never directly above a septic system or buried utility line. Placing it too close to the house risks water seeping toward your foundation instead of away from it, which defeats the point of the rain garden.
What if my calculated size doesn't fit the space I have?
A smaller rain garden dug deeper can hold a similar water volume to a larger, shallower one, within reason, since it's the volume of the depression that matters, not just the footprint. There's a practical depth limit, most residential rain gardens stay in the 4 to 8 inch range so they drain within a day or two and don't become a standing-water hazard.
Does a rain garden need special plants?
It needs plants that tolerate both occasional standing water and normal dry spells between storms, since a working rain garden drains within 24-48 hours and is dry most of the time. Native sedges, swamp milkweed, and similar moisture-tolerant natives are common choices, and using regional natives also supports the case for water conservation and lower maintenance versus a typical lawn.